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This is the process I am currently using to develop my B&W film:
- determine appropriate developing time for developer (see film datasheets and account for push/pull). Currently, I am using TMax Developer (1 part concentrate, 4 parts water), and the following development times:
- Kodak Tri-X 400 - 6 minutes
- Ilford HP5 Plus 400 - 6 minutes 30 seconds
- Agfapan APX 400 - 7 minutes
I adjust the development time to suit the temperature of the developer solution just before development.

I use the appropriate amount of solutions based on the notes on the underside of the developing tank, depending on the number of rolls in the tank. I add 50CC extra for safety.

I start by pouring in water at approx 68F for 2 minutes. I agigate constantly for 30 seconds, and then 5 seconds every 30 seconds for the remainder. Agigation is done by turning the spindle in the tank back and forth (this causes back and forward rotation of the film spiral and up and down motion).

I pour out the water, and pour in the developer, starting the timer as I pour it in. I agigate constantly for the remainder of the first 30 seconds. Thereafter, I agigate 5 seconds every 30. For one roll, 10 seconds before completion, I start to pour the developer out. For two rolls, I begin 15 seconds before the end.

Immediately at the completion of the timer, I pour in the stop solution and agitate constantly for 30 seconds. When complete, I pour this back into the graduate. The stop is Kodak Indicator Stop Bath (starts deep yellow, turns purple when exhausted).

At this time, I pour in the Kodak Rapid Fixer (diluted as reccomended by Kodak), and agigate for 8 minutes, with constant agitation during the first 30 seconds. I open the film tank, pull out the film carefully, and examine to see if it has fixed properly. I put the film back, close the tank. If it has not fixed properly yet, I agigate for another 60 seconds, and repeat. At completion, I pour the fixer back into the graduate.

At this time, I pour water in, agigate for 30 seconds, and pour it out.

I then pour in Heico Permawash. I agigate for 2 minutes, agigating constantly for the first 30 seconds. At completion, I pour the heico back into the graduate. I haven't determined if saving the working solution after use is safe or not, although the bottle indicates there is a 90 day life in an air-out bottle and that one batch of working solution can do over 100 rolls (i can't recall the exact number).

Finally, I fill the tank, pour out the water, and then I put the hose into the center hole of the tank and let water run for 6 minutes, periodically dumping the water out and putting the hose back in.

When complete, I pour the water out, put fill it back up, put in a couple drops of Edwal LFN, recover the tank, invert it gently twice, uncover the tank, and remove the roll. I then remove the roll from the spindle, open the spiral carefully, squeegee it as i remove it from the roll, and put the clips on and hang it to dry.

Is anything amiss in my process?

Yowza, I think you've got your bases covered here. I've never bothered with indicator or stop baths or Edwal, but given the right info i'd probably start using them - James is the source to ask on that issue. However - as you know stated developing times are only a starting point for each film. I'd use d76 just to save the cash, or use some other equally inexpensive developer, most of my sources have claimed tmax dev isn't worth the trouble. and d76 is a great product, fine grain - tho Selectol (?) ive heard is better on that, but probably not so great if you wanna push the film (which you probably wont, unless its your only option - and its a great option to have.) I'd consult james on how to go about determining your development times to suit the contrast and such to the paper you use. A start to finish regimen can really deliver if you keep at it.

Sounds like you have it covered Roy. The key in film processing is consistency, you should try and keep your developer at the same temperature all of the time so you can eliminate a variable. You can adjust your time based on what you need in the way of compensation. If you keep changing your time and temp you have no way of knowing what to adjust. The instructions that come with film and developer are just starting points, they are not concrete. You will have to adjust your times based on the way you operate, what you want your results to look like, and the enlarger type you are using (condenser or diffusion).

One last thing, give the film 30 seconds in the LFN or Photoflo, so it can get into the surface and do what it needs to do. Be very careful when squeegeeing (is that a word) the film as the emulsion is very delicate.

Hi Roy. Your basic developing scheme should work but as the others respondents have stated it is just a starting point. And they are very correct in that the temps of your chemistry is really important for consistency. I use hc110 but tmax developer is ok too. D76 is a great developer especially at 1:1 for fine grain. I would also use plain water for stopping as the stop bath has a tendency to cause bubbles to form in the emulsion and that will in turn cause pinholes which are black dots on the print. If you are using a hardening fixer then you are eliminating the ability to use a toner like selenium later if the neg proves to need a contrast increase. The film needs only 4 minutes in film strength fixer as per Ilford. I suggest getting a copy of the Kodak data guide. It is invaluable as a resource for all things photographic. And Phil is right that you will need to tailor your film develoment to your type of enlarger light. I believe you use a condensor enlarger which will facilitate the need to under develope your film. The contrast is inherently higher with a condensor type light. I would stay away from graded papers until you have become proficient at determining your system calibration. With graded papers the need to tailor your individual film contrast to the paper grade is paramount. There are purists out there who will tell you otherwise but from my experience you will be better served by learning on variable contrast paper. And learning on FB paper too. You will see a definate increase in the quality using FB paper. Why struggle for a good print with RC paper when it may not be possible to get there using RC in the first place. Great for proofs but for good work RC doesn't cut it. So find a film you like and a developer you like and stick with them. And above all "calibrate" your system. Film speed and film development go hand in hand for good easily printed negatives. And you only need to wash film for 8 minutes after you wash it in a hypo clearing agaent. The base takes up no fixer so it doesn't take long to wash it. And if you use Ilfords method of fixing you shouldn't need to wash your prints(FB) any longer than 20 minutes tops. Your washing apparatus is adequate for your purposes. James

james mickelson says:
If you are using a hardening fixer then you are eliminating the ability to use a toner like selenium later if the neg proves to need a contrast increase.

james, I thought toning was only done on the finished print.
I would appreciate your info on this. Does the toned negative display the toning on the finished print?
Thanks in advance. G

Luis S.	Kaushik C.	Phillip C.	Marcos R F.	Salvador María L.	Marcos R F.	Ann .	a. S.

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