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  Photography Forum: Darkroom Techniques Forum: 
  Q. Fixing and washing RC paper?

Asked by Rose Hooper   Donor  (K=899) on 1/1/2002 
Someone recently suggested to me that you don't want to wash RC paper for too long or it gets wavy lines...

I am using Kodak rapid fixer to fix my paper. According to the instructions, i'm supposed to dilulte 1:1 and fix for 2 minutes according to the fixer's instructions, but I found that fixing film with the rapid fixer for the indicated times resulted in under-fixed film. I therefore presumed that using the film-strength fixer for 2 minutes would properly fix the RC paper.

I might need a bit of guidance on the matter of fixing...

I have been washing by setting up a tray, tilted slightly, so that when water is running into it from the faucet (with a hose), the water is periodically exchanged. I have been putting the prints into this running water, and washing for about 2-4 minutes per print, sometimes a bit longer. I generally flip the print a few times and keep making sure it is submerged in the water.


    



 Terrence Kent   (K=7023) - Comment Date 1/1/2002
sounds good. Apparently fiber and graded papers are the way to go after you master rc tho, i wouldn't know myself tho (haven't mastered rc)





 Ed Farmer   (K=49) - Comment Date 1/2/2002
I have never heard of "wavy lines" from excessive washing of RC paper. The most common problem is that the paper will start split at the edges as more and more water is soaked up.

I think that your wash time might still be on the short side. You don't mention the use of any wash aid. I would wash the prints for 10-15 minutes unless you are experiencing some problem.




Phillip Cohen
 Phillip Cohen  Donor  (K=10561) - Comment Date 1/2/2002
I use standard fixer for my prints and film meaning they are in the solution for around 10 minutes. For film I use the jobo processor and tanks and the hose washer attachment that goes from the faucet to the tank. I wash the film for about an hour. RC paper I wash for about 40 minutes in an Oriental 11x14 archival washer, FB prints I wash for about 60 minutes. I have yet to have a problem with staining or other retained fixer problems, and have not had any problem with delamination of the emulsion or plastic coatings.

You can see that fixer is heavier than water and tends to layer itself in the bottom of the tray if you just float prints in a water bath, you really need to change the water constantly, it becomes even more critical if you have a number of prints in the wash at the same time. It is also a good idea to wash the prints face down if you do them in a horizontal tray washer, this will allow the fixer to "fall" out of the face of the paper.

What I have seen with RC paper that is not properly washed is the fixer will soak into the paper between the emulsion and the back along the edges. This appears to be the problem area in short washing times. The fixer needs to be leeched out of the paper or you will have staining problems as the print ages. If you trim your borders once dry then this is not a big deal as the contaminated borders will be cut off.

For archival reasons you should have several inches of white border around your image area as prints deteriorate from the outside edges towards the inside. By having a large border with loads of white space around the image area it takes a long time before deterioration hits the actual print space. Not that RC is archival, but it is just good practice for all prints.





 Scott McFadden   (K=5663) - Comment Date 1/20/2002
Maybe your friend uses hard water.





 Jason    (K=77) - Comment Date 5/2/2002
When I dveloped my own prints at school, the teacher used Ilford's rapid fixer. We had a set of directions from the manufacturer which set the reccommended fixing time at 3 min, and wash for 3 min.

I followed those instructions, and 4 years later, my prints are looking the ame as they did when they dried.




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