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  Photography Forum: Darkroom Techniques Forum: 
  Q. Waterbath Development for RC

Asked by Andy Ly   Donor  (K=716) on 1/27/2002 
Heya everyone,

The other week, I was working on an image in the darkroom. It is a night shot of the San Diego Balboa Park.. Apparently, a few of the areas rendered too dark.. I needed a more 'open-envoronment' feeling without losing too much of my contrast, so I tried waterbath development. This procedure worked fine on FB, but when making preliminary prints on RC, I figured it would work too. But I started getting streaks on the entire print. Initially, I thought it was due to safelight exposure, but finally concluded (after a few tries with no luck) that with such a short development time on RC paper, while lifting the print to be transferred to the waterbath development, the developer running down the print continued developing certain areas of the print, creating the streaks. Is it simply impossible to perform waterbath development on RC paper? Or can someone recommend an alternative? In the end, I had to drop from a grade 2 to 1 1/2, where I acheived the results I was looking for, but having to compromise contrast in the midtone reigon. Any advice would be appreciated. Andy

PS. The photo I was printing: http://djklmnop.tripod.com/stuff/balboanight.jpg


    


Phillip Cohen
 Phillip Cohen  Donor  (K=10561) - Comment Date 1/28/2002
Andy, I believe that RC paper has a developing agent impregnated in the emulsion to aid in machine processing. This may be the reason that you are having problems. FB paper typically doesn't have a developer built in. This accounts for the longer delay in the images appearance during development.





 james mickelson   (K=7344) - Comment Date 1/28/2002
And RC paper has the thinest emulsion of all papers. The technique of water bath development seldom works with newer emulsion films and papers due to the thinness of the emulsion and for paper the developer incorporated into the paper itself. The older graded poapers respond to water bath development very well. As do the older film emulsions.Sounds like you have encountered the reson most fine art photographers don't use RC for much other than contact proofs. It has a very short curve too. If you are using 35mm roll film then you are not getting the most of your materials abitlities. It is hard to shoot 36 frames and get the optimum zonal range the film is capable of when developing for all the differing contrasts encountered. So it may not be just the fault of the RC but a number of different factors. Let me know if I can help. james




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