Eric Mendoza
(K=1204) - Comment Date 4/14/2003
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I'm not a pro. but from my experience, what happened to you is that the camera meter is reading the sun and the rest of
the image is underexposed, thus dark. There is no perfect
answer except to "bracket" your exposure. Set your camera
to manual and shoot with diff. exposure(under and over
exposure. If your camera has matrix metering, it might do
it for you, but if your's have center metering, I usually
will underexposed even 1 to 2 f stop. I took a series of
sunset, all of them underexposed with my manual 30 yrs old
camera and they all turn well, or acceptable.
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Mark E
(K=216) - Comment Date 4/14/2003
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I'm not familiar with the Rebel, but if your camera has center weighted metering, you can meter a part of the sky that is away from the sun itself and use the exposure lock button or adjust the shutter speed and aperture manually.
If you meter an area that contains the sun, you will wind up with underexposed images, plus you might go blind ;-)
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Bob Tomerlin
(K=5460) - Comment Date 4/19/2003
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Mark is correct. You can spot or center-weight meter the bright sky - but not the sun. Also bracket.
To avoid having look through the viewfinder for a long time, consider using the hyperfocal distance focus. You should be able to find a discussion about that in most basic photography books, or by doing an internet search on hyperfocal distance. You'll find charts that provide the HFD for whatever lens focal length and f/stop you want to use.
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Elangovan S
(K=10675) - Comment Date 4/19/2003
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Along with those suggestion, you may also want to try the ND graduated filters. Rectangluar filters are better than the round ones, IMO.
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Ross Mckinnon
(K=1172) - Comment Date 5/8/2003
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I find the best way is to meter from the sky, not directly on the sun & also meter the sea/ground. Take 2 photos both set for sky & ground results, then you can combine them both if you so require. A graduated filter is also good, try & get one that has -2 or -3 F stops on the sky part.
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João Domingues
(K=638) - Comment Date 5/8/2003
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Hi Ranjan, it depends on what you want. If you intend to get great skyes whith some orange clouds you can mesure light in the sun whereabous; if you want to shoot a silhouette, you should mesure the sky in a middle point in terms of light; if you want a landscape, well probably you should try metering light in a set of various poins on the ground and the sky in a middle point and try to shoot with the combination aperture/speed witch is more simillar to the results obtained in the ground and sky. This seems confuse but what you really need is to shoot a lot and take notes of what you do, so then you'll be able to understand what works best.
I hope this will help. ;)
JDomingues
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Emanuel Melo
(K=166) - Comment Date 5/28/2003
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I agree, shoot, shoot, shoot and then shoot some more. Take notes of the exposure for every shot you take so when they photo's come back from proccessing you can see the results. I have a Rebel G myself and I usually use the P setting to get a meter reading and then adjust the exposure to what I want. João Domingues has a good explaination above so I won't go through it again.
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Trevor Tollefsbol
(K=2458) - Comment Date 5/29/2003
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When I meter for a sunset, I'll spot meter on a bright orange or white just to the left or right of the sun. Usually these spots are bright to the point that the cameras meter will actually be confused, and try to underexpose the image. So, I'll compensate by overexposing that area by one to two stops. Your camera probably has an exposure compensation function which is usually denoted by a (+/-). If you plan on having any foreground detail, a good Grad ND filter is a must (as some of the others have suggested). Using a grad can be posted on a whole other forum. But, like the last two said, you just have to shoot, shoot, shoot!
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Rob Giuffrida
(K=434) - Comment Date 8/19/2003
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Try shooting a low ISO slide film - this way you know EXACTLY how the picture came out, not how the developing machine processed it. Then, take the shoot, shoot, and shoot some more; bracketing all shots method. Also, begin shooting just before the sun sets, and continue shooting until about 30 min after the sun has set - the exposure seems to be easier because the sun is not in the picture, not as much compensation; and the colors are beautiful. Do all your own light settings - use a tripod to allow slow shutter speeds. Check out the attached pic - shot on Kodak Elite Chrome - extra color - about 20 - 25 min after sunset (sorry, terrible scan).
www.naturallandscapephotos.com
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xxxx xxxx
(K=1833) - Comment Date 9/26/2003
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What I do is: spotmeter at the brightest part (but not the sun) and then override the meter by two stops (+), here is a sample:
http://www.usefilm.com/image/182582.html
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Mark Peterson
(K=3452) - Comment Date 10/17/2003
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Use slow film. This photo was taken with Velvia (ISO 50).
http://www.usefilm.com/image/225866.html
I metered off of the sky just above the boats on the left of the sun.
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Scott McFadden
(K=5663) - Comment Date 10/29/2003
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OK this sounds stuipid but its only film try it.
TURN A CENTRE WEIGHTED CAMERA UPSIDE DOWN.
its that simple.please try it.
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Nichol Rose
(K=1020) - Comment Date 3/5/2006
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I think It's all about trial-and-error. In the case of the attached image, I shot approximately 15 images to get one that is somewhat close to what I envisioned.
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sunset
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David Eves
(K=226) - Comment Date 6/4/2007
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what I do is different. I tossed mylight meter away in 1973 (Gossen Luna Pro) Learn HOW to READ light. This takes practice. When I create an image, I enjoy such a high degree of confidence that I only expose one frame of film. Try this turn around and place the sun at your back. Now look.. what do you see.? take a meter reading of what you see.. now turn around and use those settings to capture a spectacular image!
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Midnight in the Arctic
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David Eves
(K=226) - Comment Date 6/4/2007
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if you want to really learn photography.. I can teach you MY WAY. which is different.. I made millions @ photography.. you can find me on a lot of web sites.. just google High in the Arctic Eskimo check out my images.. a photo tells the whole story
if you have to use light meters and menu's and other gadgets you will never learn the ART of photography. I can teach you how to create perfect images every time using one frame of film ONLY.
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50 BELOW ZERO & I HAVE THE FLU
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David Eves
(K=226) - Comment Date 6/4/2007
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Photography is all about LIGHT. Now... what can YOU do, with your IMAGINATION.. ... & light!
this is what photograhpy is all about. LEARN how to READ that LIGHT.
Adjusting meters will not teach you anything.
your letting that camera tell you what to do.
Only three thngs happen: when you "squeeze" that shutter exposure wise... that image is too dark tooo light or rignt in the ballpark good.
Learning to create CONSISTENT EXPOSURES is all about understanding EV values Exposure Values. there are 22 EV charts
you can easily construct and build all 22 Exposure charts, in your head, if you know just one EV value 125 @ f16 100 ISO = EV 15
I retired 11 years ago from the Electrical Construction Industry due to the high volume of money I made from my photos that were created by melting snow to process the color film & prints.
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Searching for food @ 50 Below zero
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David Eves
(K=226) - Comment Date 6/4/2007
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Four images four frames of film = many many tens of thousands of dollars...! DO YOU REALLY WANT TO LEARN PHOTOGRAPHY correctly ???
Learn how to READ.............................................LIGHT!
I am "no one" nothing, just a happily retired electrican (young) who made it BIG with his "hobby" I have been teaching COLOR PHOTOGRAPHY darkroom processing techniques for many decades. I have had hundreds of students, complete rookies that went on to master a camera with no light meter in any conditions! Perfect results every time. You want to really LEARN ?? COME ALONG.. ! I have time tested methods ! they work
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Midnight in Mid May @ 40 below zero
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David Eves
(K=226) - Comment Date 6/4/2007
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So how is this accomplished ? learning how to read light. We have to have a "starting" point for you to begin with... step by step for you to practice..So step one.. memorize this
1/125 @ F 16 100 ISO Bright sun distinct shadows on snow or sand
This is EV 15 now lets build the complete chart you should be able to finish this yourslef but hrere it is.:
1/250 @ F 11
1/500 @ F 8
1/1000 @ F 5.6
now for the reverse end:
1/60 @ F22
1/30 @ F 32
1/15 @ F 45
now that is for 100 ISO .
200 ISO OPEN just one F- STOP now build the complete chart
400 ISO OPEN just one F- stop now build th complete chart
400 ISO open just one F-stop now build the complete chart
800 ISO OPEN JUST ONE f- STOP now build the complete chart
1600 ISO OPEN just one F-stop now build the ocmplete chart
I met this young girl 7 miles out on the ocean ice. she is sitting on a snowmobile @ 40 below zero I spent 1/2 hour with this child. I only exposed one frame of film! I knew Exactly what I wanted BEFORE I ever brought that camera up to create this striking image. As I brought the camera up.. she smiled. I said NO! please do not do that. i WANT YOU TO LOOK PAST ME. LOOK RIGHT THROUGH ME.. oh yes.. YES ! -=[CLICK]=-
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Oh! so lovely !
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David Eves
(K=226) - Comment Date 6/4/2007
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NOW GO OUT: to a park someplace where people or "subjects" are in the SUN lit from either side and the front. NO BACKLIGHING YET.
practice looking at this light. Take photos of subject that are lit by the sunlight and learn how to make thst exposure with just one attempt. This is practice so that when you need to do this quickly you will have already lerned how to read that situation and that light... next we start with over cast days.. instead of 1/125 @ f16 now we are going to use 1/125 @ F 5.6 this is EV 12 buld the whole chart and then do it for all the other ISO values
1983 - United Bank of Alaska offered me 100K for the complete rights to this image, upon the advice of some friends very high in the professional Art World I declined that offer.. I am so glad I took their advice. we passed that figure long ago as asles continue to poor in for this image.
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Daisy Della Fay
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David Eves
(K=226) - Comment Date 6/4/2007
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if you don't know what to do, when you are practicing: open a stop or two.. don't know what to do ? close a stop or two
this all takes a small amount of practice before you learn how to consistently expose COLOR film. one frame at a time.
My biggest selliing image of all tmes is this gem taken on Easter Sunday @ 9:00 a.m. @ 30 below zero.. "Children chasing a Bowhead Whale"
Practice, and look at this image 1/125 @ F 11 for years!
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Hurry up Whale ... Hurry.. hurry ! whale
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