Matej Maceas
(K=24381) - Comment Date 8/31/2004
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Maggie Rodriguez
(K=215) - Comment Date 8/31/2004
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Matej Maceas
(K=24381) - Comment Date 8/31/2004
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1. Polarizing filter 2. Neutral density graduated filter (ND grad in short) 3. ND filter (non-graduated) - for when you need longer shutter times, e.g. for blurred water etc. 4. Then there are various combined filters such as polarizer+warming filter, graduated filters with colour, etc.
Apart from filters (and a good eye and patience while waiting for good light and so on) you'll also need a good, sturdy tripod.
Please note that I don't really shoot landscapes, much less colour, so the above is just something to read before a real landscape photographer posts an answer :-)
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Peter Witkop
(K=3189) - Comment Date 8/31/2004
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I'd add to Matej's list (which I'd agree with), a warming filter, probably an 81b. This is very usefull shooting in openshade (which I often do) to keep things from going too blue. I'd recomend getting a polserizing filter as soon as possible, followed by a warming filter, then a ND grad filter (which can take a bit of practice to use well), and then a ND filter.
Peter
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Kurt LaRue
(K=5067) - Comment Date 9/28/2004
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For anyone starting landscapes, I would highly reccomend Joseph K. Lange's book "How To Photograph Landscapes" (Stackpole Books) MSRP is $19.95 but I found it at my local library. Mr Lange discusses filter use in-depth and reccomends polarizer (essential) and an "enhancing" or "red intensifier" filter. These are not cheap but can really make a difference. Prices vary from around $35 to $300+! The better (more expensive) ones work well without giving you a magenta sky.
Film choice is also very important. The majority of books I've read on outdoor photography feature images made on Fujichrome Velvia ISO 50 slide film, now available in ISO 100 speed. I've tried the 100 version and it does give very saturated colors, often colors I didn't realize were there in the viewfinder! Kodak 100 EBX is similar and easier to find. My favorite print film is Fujicolor Reala 100, with it's warmth and extremely fine grain. Hope this helps and best of luck. Kurt
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James Whitehill
(K=114) - Comment Date 10/7/2004
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I would agree with all the Above and If you are shooting digital shoot raw and if you have Photoshop CS you can apply all your filters after the fact and see what you really like then get those and use them as you compose in camera
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Kevin H
(K=22502) - Comment Date 10/11/2004
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To be honest, all you really need is a polarized filter and ND grad. Everything else you can fix in photoshop.
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Nikolai Pozdniakov
(K=611) - Comment Date 12/6/2004
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Kevin or anybody, I know when to use ND grad but when do you use polarized filter? Nick
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Surajeet Ray
(K=38) - Comment Date 12/7/2004
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Hi Nick Polarisers are used on a sunny day to bring out color from flat sky & to avoid glare from water,metal or glass. If you ask me I'll recomend a CPl which you can adjust as per your requirments of the density of blue color of the sky.It works with all MF & AF lenses. Cokin sells good CPLs.
Surajeet.
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Patrick Ziegler
(K=21797) - Comment Date 12/8/2004
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"To be honest, all you really need is a polarized filter and ND grad. Everything else you can fix in photoshop"
No,No,No.....
Your landscape or any other image will allway be more realistic if you you do it right in the field. Filters manipulate light at the level of a photon. Photoshop can only manipulate pixcels. It takes millions or more photons to make a pixcel. Photoshop can do many things for you but you will be better off and feel better about your images if you do not use software as a crutch.
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Patrick Ziegler
(K=21797) - Comment Date 12/8/2004
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Nick: Surajeet is correct.
Polorizers reduce reflected light from any non metalic surface. The sky itself is obviously non metalic. if you filter the light that is reflected for particals in the sky itself you will get very blues skys. This has more effect the more the sun is at you back. Clouds will stand out against the blues sky. Water will take on a whole new look. It's a bit like wearing sun glasses.
http://www.usefilm.com/image/623647.html
http://www.usefilm.com/image/617354.html
http://www.usefilm.com/image/615622.html
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Steve Kaufman
(K=2748) - Comment Date 12/8/2004
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I want to clarify a few things said about polarizing filters. A polarizer can benefit your photography considerably, but you have to watch what you are doing with them or the effect will not be very good. The effect of a polarizer is at it's maximum at 90? angles from the sun; it has no effect other than cutting out a bit of light (more like a ND filter) at 180? from the sun. Not to pick on Pat, but since he posted a few links to his photos using polarizers, on his photo of a city park, http://www.usefilm.com/image/623647.html, you can see that when he used a wide angle lens, the polarizer differentially darkened the sky. The sun is to his left. The maximum polarizing effect would be 90? from the sun, which is the left hand portion of the photo. The right side, which is closer to an angle of 180? from the sun is brighter. This differential polarizing effect in the sky is not natural; in most situations we want to "fool" people into believing the image we shoot is totally natural. You need to look closely through your camera as you use the polarizer to try to avoid making the scene look unnatural. Now the polarizer did bring out very rich colors in the trees in Pat's image, and that's the true benefit of these filters.
A polarizer will reduce reflections from any surface that is reflecting light (yes, that includes metallic surfaces). Photographers often forget to use a polarizer to intensify colors in shots that do not include skies, like a macro shot of autumn leaves. Set up the shot so that the sunlight is 90? to your subject, use that polarizer, and you will get much brighter colors.
As an aside, you can also filter light from studio flashes with a polarizer. To properly photograph an oil painting you would use two strobes (flashes) at 45? angles from the painting, using polarizers over the strobes. This will reduce glare off the surface of the painting to best portray the original artwork.
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Jeroen Lalleman
(K=33) - Comment Date 12/13/2004
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Hi,
I would recommend a UV filter when taking landscape pictures, especially when taking pictures with a non-digital camera. When you take a picture on a sunny day, not using a UV filter, you often get a haze over the image. Because film is more sensitive to UV radiation then the human eye this haze will be worse than you would expect. I myself use a filter from the Kaiser company (58mm) and I use it on my digital camera too.
Greetz Jeroen
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