Without seeing what you mean by "this jacket," I'll take a stab at what your'e asking.
I'm thinking a dark jacket that renders just dark. You don't want to overexpose the image because there are whites that you don't want blown out. Am I along the right lines, here?
If you're using film, try a low-contrast, Wedding, or Portrait film (three ways to describe the same thing). Try Fuji's NPH or NPS. Kodak's Portra line is also low-contrast film.
If you're using digital, see if there's a setting in your camera for low-contrast images. The only digital cameras I've used are SLRs, and they do have a setting like this.
Note that your colors might not be as "punchy" and might not "pop" off the paper, but you should get detail in both the darks and lights of your image.
The low-contrast film was developed for (in part) weddings where the bride is in white and the groom is in black.
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