Photograph By Greg Panayiotou
Greg P.
Photograph By Gregory McLemore
Gregory M.
Photograph By Alex Avilov
Alex A.
Photograph By Milena G
Milena G.
Photograph By charlie f. kohn
charlie f. k.
Photograph By Luigi Parisi
Luigi P.
Photograph By Jan Symank
Jan S.
Photograph By George Oeser
George O.
 
imageopolis Home Sign Up Now! | Log In | Help  

Your photo sharing community!

Your Photo Art Is Not Just A Fleeting Moment In Social Media
imageopolis is dedicated to the art and craft of photography!

Upload
your photos.  Award recipients are chosen daily.


Editors Choice Award  Staff Choice Award  Featured Photo Award   Featured Critique Award  Featured Donor Award  Best in Project Award  Featured Photographer Award  Photojournalism Award

Imageopolis Photo Gallery Store
Click above to buy imageopolis
art for your home or office
.
 
  Find a Photographer. Enter name here.
    
Share On
Follow Us on facebook 

 



  Photography Forum: Darkroom Techniques Forum: 
  Q. change developer or pull film?

Asked by Kurt Zoglmann    (K=1373) on 11/19/2004 
I have been exposing and developing 120 Ilford HP5+ and Pan F at the rated manufacture ISO speeds. Once I have processed the film and allowed it to dry, I have been scanning it in on a Nikon 8000 ED scanner at 4,000 dpi. Prints are being made via BO inkjet.

Scanning in the film and editing levels and curves in 16bit allow for precise control over all tones and constrast from highlights to shadows. On many exposures I have noticed a personal DESIRE for an INCREASE in SHADOW DETAIL on properly exposed images without blowing out highlights. As a general rule of thumb would it be best to pull the film? Or would it be best to try a different film developer like D-23 or Xtol? I'm currently using D-76 1:2.

I'm willing to experiment, but I thought I would see what other peoples' opinions were on the matter.


    



 Ray Heath   (K=4559) - Comment Date 11/20/2004
g'day Kurt, the best way to increase shadow detail, and lower overall contrast is to overexpose and under develop

I have recently been using this technique with Agfa APX 400 and obtaining beautifully detailed negs

I rate the film at 200 ISO, and reduce development time by 20%

as a starting point this technique works with any film/developer combination, you may need to tweak it for your own requirements, basic formula is halve ISO and reduce time by 20%





 ann clancy   (K=2014) - Comment Date 11/20/2004
Ray has given you some good suggestion. We use HP5+ all the time . Most of the students rate the film at 200, a few at 160 (but they have done film test to determine the specific EI.)
We are also using HC110 solution B , using the recommend times . Lots of detail, etc.





 Kurt Zoglmann   (K=1373) - Comment Date 11/20/2004
Thanks.. I shot a couple rolls of Ilford Pan F ISO 50 at ISO 25. I'll see how it develops and scans in tomorrow.





 Chris Lauritzen   (K=14949) - Comment Date 11/21/2004
Personally I use Diafine; it allows great shadow detail and holds the highlights well. I played around for years using D-76, Id-11 and such but now all I use is Diafine. Nothing can be easier either, 3 minutes in each bath, 30 sec stop bath (tap water) and fix and that?s it. It is not temperature sensitive, as long as the chems are between 68 and 85 it works. When I shoot HP5+ I rate it at 800, expose for the shadows and let the developer work. I have yet to have blown out highlights. Now Diafine is not perfect, some films just don?t play well with it like T-max and Delta (they work but some don?t like the grain produced) but older emulations (Tri-X, FP4, HP5...etc) work wonders in the stuff.





 Kurt Zoglmann   (K=1373) - Comment Date 11/22/2004
From what I read about Diafine, it sounds like an interesting developer. The snag is that it may be hard for me to get it considering I'm in Kansas. B&H claims that it can not be shipped due to regulations. I assume that you pick up your Diafine locally?





 Kurt Zoglmann   (K=1373) - Comment Date 11/22/2004
Hmm.. I was groggy this morning at 6am and did not do enough searching around. B&H won't ship Diafine, but Freestyle and Adorama will.

I do have a question about storing it. I have been using the university's dark room, so I'll need to have my own storage container. It says that it makes up one gallon, but it is a two bath developer. Does this mean that each part is one gallon? Or that each is 1/2 gallon? I'll need to order a couple plastic dark room jugs, but I need to know which size. Thanks!





 Kurt Zoglmann   (K=1373) - Comment Date 11/22/2004
Okay, I need to just be more patient and google more throughly. From a larger picture of the box. It says that it makes 1 gallon EACH. :)





 Chris Lauritzen   (K=14949) - Comment Date 11/22/2004
I get my Diafine from Adorama and Calumet.








 Chris Lauritzen   (K=14949) - Comment Date 11/22/2004
It comes in quart and gallon sizes.





 Kurt Zoglmann   (K=1373) - Comment Date 11/22/2004
Thanks for the reply. Out of curiosity, how many rolls of 120 can you process from the one gallon of Diafine?





 Chris Lauritzen   (K=14949) - Comment Date 11/22/2004
I mixed my current batch of it over a year ago. It's still going strong and I have probably done 150 to 200 rolls of 120 and a bunch of 35mm. This stuff last forever.




Log in to post a response to this question

 

 

Return To Photography Forum Index
|  FAQ  |  Terms of Service  |  Donate  |  Site Map  |  Contact Us  |  Advertise  |

Copyright ©2013 Absolute Internet, Inc - All Rights Reserved

Elapsed Time:: 0.171875